Fitting for your blazer. This is often the most intimidating part of sewing a new style of garment, so we wanted to make it as simple as possible for you to diagnose and correct any fit issues without having to consult a million books (we did that for you!)
The first step in this process is to MAKE A MUSLIN. Please, for the love of all that is holy, do not skip this step. A tailored jacket is a significant investment of your time and energy, and I would hate for you to cut into your lovely fabric and do all this work only to find you should have made a few simple adjustments first.
The hardest thing about fitting a jacket is doing it on your own. If you have a fit buddy to help, the process will go by faster. If not, take well-lit photos (daylight is best) of the front, back, and side while you're standing normally with arms hanging naturally at your sides and use those to diagnose issues. Once you have pictures, use this blog post or the ebook to identify what the problem is (we also include a Blazer Fitting Checklist in the ebook that you can work through). We have shown 23 adjustments here and it should cover the majority of fit issues. If you're still struggling, the fitting is an invaluable resource. Now, let's get started! Each adjustment below illustrates how drag lines or fit issues will appear on your muslin, with the proper correction shown on the pattern pieces affected.
Dart In the Wrong Place
SYMPTOM:
The dart should line up with the apex/fullest part of the bust. If it doesn’t, the shaping and fullness created by the dart for the bust will not happen in the right place. This will cause tightness or restriction across the bust and may create excess fabric along the side.
SOLUTION:
To correct, simply shift the dart over the necessary amount and redraw the dart on the pattern piece at the correct place.
Have you ever put on a tailored jacket only to find that it just doesn't quite fit right in the bust area? Maybe it feels a bit too tight or there's excess fabric bunching up along the sides. Fear not, there's a simple solution to this common fit issue!
Why is the Dart Placement Important?
When it comes to the fit of a tailored jacket, the dart plays a crucial role in shaping and providing fullness to the bust area. If the dart doesn't line up with the fullest part of the bust, the shaping effect will be off, leading to discomfort and a less-than-flattering fit.
How to Correct the Issue
The good news is that fixing this fit issue is easier than you might think. Simply shift the dart over to align with the apex of the bust, ensuring that it sits in the right place to create the desired shaping effect. Once you've made this adjustment, redraw the dart on the pattern piece at the correct location.
By making this simple alteration, you can ensure that your tailored jacket fits perfectly in the bust area, providing both comfort and a flattering silhouette. Say goodbye to tightness and excess fabric, and hello to a jacket that looks and feels like it was made just for you!
Dart Too Long
SYMPTOM:
The purpose of the bust dart is to shape the bodice of the jacket to conform to the shape of your body. It should create volume where you need it, at the fullest point of the bust. Ideally the dart will end 1/2” - 1” below the apex of the bust.
If the dart is too short, it will release volume where you don’t need it, lower on the chest. Sign of a too-short dart is excess fullness below the apex of the bust.
SOLUTION:
To correct, extend the point of the dart the amount needed and taper the lines of the new point to the existing dart.
Small Bust / Too Loose Above Waist
SYMPTOM:
If you have a small bust, you may find the jacket has too much volume through the front. This will result in vertical drag lines or excess fabric through the bust.
SOLUTION:
The simplest fix is to remove width through the front, side panel and back at bust level. Start with the front and side panel; additional width may be removed from the back if necessary. Shift the armhole shape in as needed, ensuring you maintain seam allowances.
* Ensure changes are also transferred to lining pieces.
Do you ever feel like your jacket is drowning you in excess fabric? If you have a small bust, you might notice those pesky vertical drag lines or too much volume through the front. But fear not, there's a simple solution to this common issue!
What's the Symptom?
So, you've got a case of the baggy jacket blues? If your small bust is causing vertical drag lines or excess fabric through the front, you're not alone. It can be frustrating to feel like your jacket just isn't fitting right, but don't worry, there's a fix for that!
What's the Solution?
The key to fixing a baggy jacket is to remove width through the front, side panel, and back at bust level. It may sound complicated, but it's actually quite simple. Start by adjusting the front and side panel to remove any additional width. If needed, you can also take in the back to ensure a better fit. Make sure to shift the armhole shape in as needed while maintaining those all-important seam allowances.
And don't forget, these changes need to be transferred to the lining pieces as well. It's all about creating a tailored fit that flatters your figure and eliminates that excess fabric dilemma.
Neckline Too Tight
SYMPTOM:
If the neckline is too tight, there may be drag lines or creases on the front shoulder radiating from the neckline to the shoulder. The armhole may show signs of tension as well. The shoulder seam will not align with the center of your shoulder.
SOLUTION:
Remove the collar from the neckline and open the shoulder and center back seams. Position the seams so they settle naturally along the neckline, and make sure the amount added is evenly distributed between shoulder and center back seam. Since you have lengthened the neckline, add the same amount to both collars and stands.
Have you ever put on a tailored jacket only to find that the neckline is tighter than a jar lid that just won't budge? If you're experiencing drag lines, creases, or tension around the front shoulder and armhole, fear not! There's a solution to this fashion fiasco.
What's the Deal with a Tight Neckline?
When your jacket's neckline is too tight, it can cause all sorts of unsightly issues like drag lines and creases that make you look more crumpled than a piece of paper in a toddler's hands. Not to mention the shoulder seam playing a game of hide-and-seek with the center of your shoulder.
How to Fix It Like a Pro
Step one: Say goodbye to that constricting collar! Remove it from the neckline and give yourself some breathing room. Next, open up the shoulder and center back seams. It's time to let loose and allow your jacket to settle naturally along the neckline.
Now, here's the trick: when adjusting the seams, make sure to distribute the added length evenly between the shoulder and center back seam. You want to avoid looking like you're wearing a lopsided jacket that screams "DIY gone wrong."
Adding the Finishing Touches
Since you've elongated the neckline, it's only fair to give your collars and stands the same treatment. Add the same amount of length to both sides to keep things symmetrical. You don't want one side of your collar reaching for the stars while the other side is stuck in the mud.
With these simple adjustments, you can say goodbye to the tight neckline woes and hello to a tailored jacket that fits like a dream. Remember, a well-fitted jacket is like a good joke - it's all about the delivery!
Too Loose Through Hips
SYMPTOM:
The jacket should lay flat against the lower body. If there are vertical wrinkles or excess fabric, you need to remove width through the hip.
SOLUTION:
Simply take in the hip along front, side panel and back. Pin your muslin along the seams to determine the amount needed, ensuring the back vent remains closed after adjusting. Taper the new seam line into the side seam just below the waist.
So you've got this snazzy tailored jacket that you absolutely adore, but something just doesn't seem quite right. Maybe it's those pesky vertical wrinkles or that excess fabric that's throwing off your whole look. Fear not, dear reader, for there is a solution to this sartorial dilemma!
What's the Problem?
When your jacket doesn't lay flat against your lower body and those vertical wrinkles start popping up, it's a clear sign that there's too much width through the hip. And let's face it, nobody wants to look like they're drowning in fabric!
How to Fix It
The solution is simpler than you think. All you need to do is take in the hip along the front, side panel, and back of the jacket. Grab some pins and a muslin fabric to determine the amount of fabric that needs to be removed. Make sure to keep an eye on the back vent to ensure it stays closed after the adjustments.
Once you've pinned the excess fabric, taper the new seam line into the side seam just below the waist. This will create a more tailored and flattering silhouette, giving you that perfect fit you've been dreaming of!
There you have it! With just a few adjustments, you can transform your ill-fitting jacket into a tailored masterpiece. Say goodbye to those vertical wrinkles and hello to a sleek, polished look that will turn heads wherever you go. So go ahead, grab those pins and muslin, and get ready to slay in style!
